This is based on a Cape York woomera I have, but I altered it to make it possible to carve out of a piece of lath. There are a lot of steps involved here, but this one is a breeze to cut out and make. The binding for the peg was on the original.
Material:
Wood, 23 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/8"
Dowel, 3/8" x 2 1/4"
Artificial Sinew
Construction:
- Carve out the handle (these dimensions are all approximate, make it fit your own hand). Starting about 2" from the end, carve it down from both sides to 7/8" wide 5" from the handle end. Taper it back out to the edges about 10" from the handle end. Round off the end of the grip.
- Taper off the peg end. Starting about 7" from the end, carve it down from both sides so it's 3/4" high at the peg end.
- Round off all the edges. On the wide part of the body, it should come to a point on the top and bottom sides; on the grip, it should be more rounded. Don't do anything to the peg end.
- Cut a groove in the end of the peg end. It should be about 1/8" wide by 1/8" deep.
- About 1/2" from the peg end, drill (2) 1/8" holes. The sinew will go through these. Try not to come too close to the edges or each other.
- Sand off all the edges.
- Carving the Peg. There are 4 things you need to do to the peg.
- Round off the top and bottom of the peg.
- About 3/8" from the top of the peg, cut a groove for the spur. Don't go too deep.
- On the side opposite the spur, cut out a groove for the sinew wrap to sit in. It only has to be 1/16" deep or so, enough so that the sinew won't slip.
- On the bottom of the peg (the end away from the spur), carve the peg into a "V" shape. This goes into the groove on the board. Make sure everything is lined up properly before you go too deep. The spur should face directly forward.
- Glue the peg in place. One you're sure it's in the right spot, start wrapping it with the sinew. Just keep going through the holes and around the back. This is a VERY secure way of fastening it.
Child's woomera, bought on ebay. Unfortunately, it was before I started paying attention to the details, so I can't tell you anything else about it. It is made out of a very lightweight wood and was missing the peg when I got it. It also had resin on the handle, which I left out in my design.
Material:
Wood, 17" x 1 3/4" x 3/8"
Dowel peg, 3/8" x 1"
Artificial sinew
Construction:
- Starting 3" from the peg end, curve it down to a point from both sides.
- Draw out the handle as shown.
- 5" from the handle end, the woomera should be 1 1/2" thick (in 1/8" from either side). Draw a line from there to the handle image.
- 5" from the peg end, draw lines down to meet the 1 1/2" thickness by the handle. Cut it out along the lines.
- Round off the bottom of the woomera.
- Round off all the edges and sand smooth.
- Sharpen one end of the dowel peg. Cut the other end at a 60 degree angle. Glue it to the tip and wrap it in place with the sinew.
Original Child's Woomera
My Copy, version 1
My copy, version 2
Close up view of the pegs
This style is called a Palati by the Kakadu people, northen coastal tribes, Australia.
Material:
Wood, 48" x 2 5/8" x 3/16"
Dowel, 5/8 x 1 1/2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
Construction:
- Shape the peg end.
- Shape the handle.
- Round edges and sand smooth.
- Using resin or putty, build a knob on the bottom of the handle. Try to make it fairly round.
- Taper one end of the dowel to a point. Cut the other end at a 60 degree angle.
- Glue the angled end onto the peg end of the board. Wrap it with artificial sinew and cover the wrapping with resin/putty.
The article about this atlatl can be found at http://www.sacred-texts.com/aus/ntna/ntna14.htm.
This style is called a Kunjolio by the Kakadu people, northen coastal tribes, Australia. It is very simple in design and construction.
Material:
Dowel, 3/8" to 1/2", 40" to 45" long
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Construction:
- One one end of the dart, make a resin/putty grip. About 5" from the end, make a raised lip that goes all the way around.
- On the other end, put a ball of resin/putty on and shape a peg at about a 30 degree angle.
The article about this atlatl can be found at http://www.sacred-texts.com/aus/ntna/ntna14.htm.
In addition, here are some images that I believe are this style, courtesy of Margie and Frank. These are from the Smithsonian Collection.
Woomera, from Cape York, Queensland in northeastern Australia. This is an unusual style that it is very thin from side-to-side, but very high in the middle. This is typical of those from Cape York.
Material:
Wood, 24 1/2" x 3" x 5/16"
Dowel, 3/8" x 3"
(2) Clamshells/plastic
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
This is can be trouble, so I've broken it down with illustrations.
Construction:
The Board
- Shape the board. At 10" from the peg end it is 3" high, tapering to 3/4" at the peg end.
- On the handle end, it tapers to 5/8" about 2" from the end, then cut out a block slightly smaller than your clamshells/plastic. This gives the resin something to bind to.
- Round the edges and sand smooth.
- Thin the peg end to 1/8" wide.
- Cut a notch on the peg end 1/4" from the top. The notch should be 1/8" high and 1/4" deep (see picture below).
The Peg
- Round off the top and bottom of the dowel.
- Starting 5/16" from the bottom, cut a groove 1/8" deep, 1/8" wide, and 3/4" high. This fits on the end of the board.
- Cut a notch in the peg to match the board, 1/8" high by 1/8" deep.
- 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.
- Cut a piece of wood 3/8" x 3/8", 1/8" thick. This goes between the board and the peg.
- Glue and assemble the peg.
- Wrap it with artificial sinew.
- Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 3" up the board.
The Handle
- Put resin/putty on the handle end going up 6 1/2".
- Put resin/putty on the handle block, going up about 1/4" on both sides.
- Use two clamshells or pieces of plastic approx. 3 1/4" x 2 1/4". Put them on the resin/putty on either side, making them even.
Woomera from the Ngadjonji tribe in northeastern Queensland in northeastern Australia.
This one is a LOT of guesswork. All I had to go by was a small picture from the internet and what little I know about Queensland-style woomeras.
Material:
Wood, 20" x 2" x 5/8"
Dowel, 3/8" x 4"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
This is can be trouble, so I've broken it down with illustrations.
Construction:
- Trim the outline of the woomera as shown. 8" from the peg end, it should be 1 1/2" high.
- Round the sides to give it an elliptical shape.
- Cut a "V"-shaped groove down the peg end. It should be 3/8" wide by 1/4" deep.
- Round off the top and bottom of the dowel.
- 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.
- Glue and assemble the peg.
- Wrap it with artificial sinew.
- Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 1" up the board.
- Put a ball of resin/putty on the handle. Make it about 2" high and 1" wide.
Australian woomera, possibly from Queensland. I'm assuming that based on the peg style.
Material:
Dowel, 1" x 23" (shaft)
Dowel, 3/8" x 1 1/2" (peg)
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
Construction:
- Starting 5" from one end of the shaft, taper it down to 3/4" at the end. This is the handle. Starting 1 1/2" from the other end, taper it down to 3/4". This is the peg end.
- On the peg end, cut a "V" shaped notch 3/8" wide by 1/4" deep from top to bottom. At 90 degrees to it (side to side), cut a 1/8" high by 1/4" deep notch.
- Round off the top and bottom of the peg dowel.
- 1/2" from the bottom, cut a notch in the peg to match the board, 1/8" high by 1/8" deep.
- 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.
- Cut a piece of wood 3/8" x 3/8", 1/8" thick. This goes between the board and the peg.
- Glue and assemble the peg.
- Wrap it with artificial sinew.
- Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 1 1/2" up the board.
- Put resin/putty on the handle end going up 5".
- Make a small resin/putty ball and put it on the end of the handle.
Woomera from Cape York, Queensland in northeastern Australia.
Material:
Wood, 35" x 2" x 3/8"
Dowel, 3/8" x 2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
Construction:
- Starting 9" from the peg end, round it down to 1" high at the end.
- Cut out the handle "block" as shown.
- Shape the top and bottom of the woomera. Starting 18" from the handle end on top, round/taper it down to meet the handle block. Starting 12" from the end on the bottom, rount/taper it up to meet the block.
- Thin the peg end to 1/8" wide.
- Cut a notch on the peg end of the woomera 1/4" from the top. The notch should be 1/8" high and 1/4" deep (see picture below).
- Make the body of the woomera elliptical and sand it all smooth.
- Round off the top and bottom of the dowel.
- Starting 1/4" from the bottom, cut a groove 1/8" deep, 1/8" wide, and 1" high. This fits on the end of the board.
- Cut a notch in the peg to match the board, 1/8" high by 1/8" deep.
- 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.
- Cut a piece of wood 3/8" x 3/8", 1/8" thick. This goes between the board and the peg.
- Glue and assemble the peg.
- Wrap it with artificial sinew.
- Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 1" up the shaft.
- Make a ball of resin/putty to go over the handle block. Coat the handle with resin to about 7 1/2" from the end.
Woomera from Cape York, Queensland in northeastern Australia. Similar to Queensland Design 4, but this one I actually have here in front of me so I'm sure of the dimensions.
Material:
Wood, 27 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/2"
Dowel, 7/16" x 2 1/4"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
Construction:
- Starting 9" from the peg end, taper it down from both sides until it is 1 1/4" wide at the end.
- Starting 12" from the handle end, taper it down from both sides until it is 1 1/4" wide 6" from the end. Keep it that wide until 3 1/2" from the end, then flare it back out to 1 1/2" wide 1" from the end. Round off the handle end.
- Make the body of the woomera elliptical and sand it all smooth.
Peg End Assembly
- On the peg end, cut a shallow "V" shaped notch from top to bottom, deep enough so the peg can rest in it.
- In the middle (5/8" from the top and bottom), cut a notch 1/8" high by 1/4" deep.
- Round off the top and bottom of the peg dowel.
- 1/2" from the bottom, cut a notch in the peg to match the board, 1/8" high by 1/8" deep.
- 3/8" from the top of the dowel, cut a notch and round it off. This is the peg for the dart.
- Cut a piece of wood 3/8" x 3/8", 1/8" thick. This goes between the board and the peg.
- Glue and assemble the peg.
- Wrap it with artificial sinew.
- Put resin/putty over the wrappings. Go 1 1/2" up the board.
Flat Australian woomera, possibly from the Central Desert region.
Material:
Wood, 22" x 4" x 3/8"
Dowel, 1/2" x 1 3/4"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
Construction:
- Cut out the peg end. Starting 4 1/2" from the end, round/taper it down to the peg "tab". The tab is 3/4" wide by 1 3/8" long.
- Cut out the handle end. Starting 9 1/2" from the end, round/taper it down to 1 1/8" wide 3 1/2" from the end, then cut out the handle knob.
- Round off all edges and sand smooth.
- Taper one end of the peg to a point and cut the other end at a 60 degree angle. Glue it onto the peg tab, wrap it with sinew, and cover it with resin/putty.
Australian woomera from the Central Desert region, Pitjantjatjara tribe. With a chisel end.
Material:
Wood, 29" x 3 3/4" x 5/8"
Dowel, 1/2" x 1 1/2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
Piece of flint or shell, 2" long by 1/4" wide
Construction:
- Cut out the peg end. Starting 5 1/2" from the end, round/taper it down to the peg "tab". The tab is 3/4" wide by 1" long.
- Cut out the handle end. Starting 16" from the end, round/taper it down. It should be 1" wide 4" from the end, then flaring back out to 2" wide at the end.
- Carve out the "belly". Starting 6" from the handle end, go down about 1/4" in the center.
- Round the back to match the belly.
- Round off all edges and sand smooth.
- Taper one end of the peg to a point and cut the other end at a 60 degree angle. Glue it onto the peg tab, wrap it with sinew, and cover it with resin/putty.
- Put resin/putty on the handle end. Build it up about 1/4" all the way around. Push in the flint/shell and let it set.
From the eBay description:
"This is a very unusual womera or spear thrower I bought at an auction recently. It is made from a hard wood with a wooden peg at one end. On the back of the spear thrower is a very fine incised pattern. The womera has a good feel and balance from it. Possibly from West Austalia. Length 28 inches Width 2.5 inches "
I'm not sure what to make of this one. It definitely looks like a woomera, except for the inset peg. That's a new one to me.
Material:
Wood, 28 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 3/4"
Dowel, 3/8" x 3/4"
Construction:
- Draw the following guide onto the handle end.
- Starting 13" from the handle end, draw a line for the sides, tapering down to meet the handle image.
- Cut out the handle and taper.
- Round up the bottom of the grip. Just come up 1/4" or so, enough to give it a good "waist".
- Starting 2" from the peg end, round it off into a nice semicircle.
- Round up the bottom of the woomera.
- 1" in from the peg end, drill a 3/8" hole at about a 40 degree angle. Go in as deep as you dare.
- Round off all edges and sand it smooth.
- Sharpen one end of the dowel peg. Put some glue in the hole and insert it.
Australian fishing wommera, origin unknown. I found the picture in the book "Wurley and Wommera" by Janet Matthews.
Material:
Wood, 34 1/2" x 4" x 3/4"
Dowel, 1/2" x 2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
Artificial Sinew
Construction:
- Shape the peg end. Starting 11 1/2" from the end, round it down to 1 1/2" wide 6" from the end. Leave it that wide for 2", then taper it to 1" wide at the end.
- Cut out the handle end and shaft. Starting at the wide point by the peg end, taper it down to 3/4" wide 16" from the handle end. Keep it at 3/4" wide until 5" from the handle, then cut out the "spear head" shape.
- Round off the ends.
- Shape the wide sections into an ellipsis and round off the 3/4" section.
- Drill a 3/8" hole through the board by the peg end. This is for the fishing line.
- Sand everything smooth. Be sure to smooth the edges of the fishing line hole.
- Taper one end of the peg to a point and cut the other end at a 60 degree angle. Glue it onto the peg tab, wrap it with sinew, and cover it with resin/putty.
To use for fishing, tie one end of the line onto the dart shaft, pass the line through the hole, and tie the other end to a 1/2" x 3" dowel. This keeps the line for going out too far.
Australian woomera, from Arhnem Land.
Material:
Wood, 34" x 1 3/4" x 5/8"
Dowel, 5/16" x 2"
Resin/Rock Hard Water Putty
This is can be trouble, so I've broken it down with illustrations.
Construction:
- Starting 16" from the handle end, taper the sides to 1" wide on the peg end.
- Starting at the same place, taper the top and bottom to 3/8" thick at the peg end.
- Round off the bottom of the grip, leaving about 5/8" in the middle.
- From 4 1/2" to 7" from the base of the handle, cut out the grips. Leave 1" between the sides.
- Round the top and sides to give it an elliptical shape.
- Sand it smooth.
- Taper/point one end of the dowel.
- Using resin (or the easier-to-find water putty), put a mass on the last 1" of the peg end and insert the peg. It should be at about a 15 degree angle. Let harden.
Australian woomera from Mornington Island, Queensland.
Material:
Wood, 30 3/4" x 2" x 1"
Construction:
- Starting 13" from the peg end, thin the sides. From 8" to the end it should be 5/8" thick.
- Remove the pieces above and below the handle.
- Taper the bottom cut to 5 1/4" from the end (directly under the peg hook).
- Starting 2 1/2" from the peg end, round it down to approx. 3/4" high.
- Undercut the peg, going in about 3/8".
- Make the handle circular and round off the end.
- Round the sides of the peg end, continuing to the end and rounding it off as well.
- Sand it all smooth.
Australian woomera from the northern coast, used by the Gnanji and Umbaia tribes.
I originally found the description of this style at http://www.sacred-texts.com/aus/ntna/ntna14.htm, but wan't going to put it up. But then I found this image of it in Wurley and Wommera by Janet Mathews and decided it was fate.
Material:
Dowel, 1/2" x 36"
Dowel, 1/4" x 1"
Resin/Water Putty
Hair/Fur/String for Tassel
Construction:
- Round off one end of the 1/4" dowel.
- Put a ball of resin/putty on the end of the shaft and push the 1/4" dowel into it at a 30 degree angle. Let it harden.
- Wrap the hair/fur/string around the handle end and coat it with the resin/water putty. Let harden.
Image from the Smithsonian Collection, courtesy of Margie and Frank
From the description when I bought it:
"Hardwood woomera spearthrower with a bone barb made by an old Aboriginal man near Port Lincoln South Australia about 20 - 25 years ago. This is the type made by the Aboriginal groups of the southern Eyre peninsula by aboriginals there prior to European settlement. The Aboriginal people of this area were, in many cases, harshly dealt with by the settlers and very few early artefacts survive."
Material:
Hardwood, 25" x 1 1/2" x 5/8"
5/16" dowel, 1 1/2" long
Wood glue
Construction:
- The "knob" on the handle end goes in for about 1 3/4", then narrows to 1 1/4".
- From there until 1 1/2" from the peg end, it tapers down to 3/4" high.
- On the peg end, trim it down to 1 1/8" high, then round off the end and cut down a notch for the peg.
- Shape the peg end. Starting about 2" from the end, it thins down to almost a point at the very end. On top, shape it into a ridge that runs all along the top of the "head".
- Drill a 5/16" hole about 1/2" into the head, following the notch you cut out. This will support the peg and keep it from breaking.
- Round off all the edges and sand it smooth.
- Round off one end of the dowel peg. Glue the flat end of the peg into the hole, push it in as far as you can, and let dry.
This spearthrower was listed on ebay, and the person selling it had no idea as to where it came from. From the wood used and the general shape, I *assume* it's an Australian woomera of some kind, but have no way to prove it. In addition, the pictures weren't very clear, so the dimensions are guesswork. If you know anything about this kind, please send me a message about it!
Material:
Hardwood, 17" x 1 3/4" x 3/8"
Construction:
- Round off the handle end.
- About 4 3/8" from the handle end, cut out a small finger notch. This should be about 1" long.
- Starting about 9 3/4" from the peg end, start tapering the top of the atlatl down until it's 7/8" high about 3 1/2" from the peg end.
- Shape the peg end. Round off the end, and then undercut the top to form the peg. Go in to 2 5/8" from the end.
- Round off all the edges and sand smooth.
I haven't had a chance to try this style yet, and I'm not sure how it would work when finished. If anybody makes one before I do, could you let me know the results?
This woomera was listed on ebay. The area it came from wasn't listed. It was originally collected in the 1940s.
Material:
Hardwood, 22" x 4" x 5/8"
Dowel, 3/8" x 1 1/4"
Artificial Sinew
Glue
Construction:
- The widest part of the woomera is located between 6" and 7" from the peg end. From there, taper it down to 6 1/2" from the handle end until it's 1 7/8" wide.
- From there, starting about 4 3/8 inches from the handle end, flare it back out to 2 3/4" wide.
- Round off the handle end.
- For the peg end, starting 6" away taper it down to 5/8" wide 1" from the end, then continue straight to the end. Round it off. This is the ledge for the peg.
- Round off all edges and sand smooth. You may want to thin out the "waist" where your hand will grip it. In addition, it looks like it was shaved thinner from the waist down to the peg end. Possibly 3/8" to 1/2" thick?
- Round off one end of the dowel peg and cut the other end off at about a 60" angle.
- Glue the dowel peg down to the ledge and wrap it with the sinew. You may want to put an additional coat of glue over all the sinew when done. This will dry into a hard shell.
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